This blog post by acclaimed chef Mary Sue Milliken originally appeared on Civil Eats. A dedicated Oxfam supporter, Milliken also contributed a recipe to the new issue of OxfamCloseup, our member magazine.
Mary Sue Milliken, pictured at an Oxfam event in 2012, is the co-chef/owner of Border Grill Restaurants in Los Angeles. Photo: Ilene Perlman/Oxfam America
It’s no surprise that the Mayans kept chocolate a secret for so long. There are few foods that illicit the kind of response chocolate does, whether it takes the form of a candy bar, a moist cake, or a warm brownie. I love creating decadent chocolate desserts, especially “Hidden Kisses”: unevenly broken chunks of dark, rich chocolate wrapped in buttery, crisp shortbread. They work some real magic on just about everyone.
As a chef, I am always on a quest for the best ingredients. When it comes to chocolate, I have tried it from near and far; some made with cocoa from Ecuador, others from Mexico or Ghana. What a luxury it is to have all these delicious and versatile chocolates at our fingertips.
Recently, as I was preparing my “hidden kisses” and nibbling on an intensely fruity Madagascar chocolate, I got to wondering – who is growing the magical cacao fruit that became this powerfully delicious chocolate? Because of my work with Oxfam, I have become aware of the injustices in our global food system. And although I love my chocolate, I hate injustice. (Civil Eats has reported previously on this issue here and here.)
As it turns out, most cocoa farmers and workers who are key to our delicious chocolate delights live below the poverty line, earning less than $2 a day. Worse yet, many cocoa-growing areas have high rates of hunger and malnutrition. Women play an indispensable role in the quality of cocoa in many countries, but it is usually men who sell the crops to traders and control the cash received as payment.
In West Africa, where most of the world’s cocoa comes from, women do nearly half of the labor on cocoa farms but own just a quarter of the land. Women often have fewer economic opportunities and, as workers, are often paid less than men. Cocoa farmers in Nigeria told Oxfam that women are paid $2 to $3 for a day’s work, while men earn about $7 a day.
The enormous demand for chocolate has drawn millions of women into employment as farm workers in poor countries. Although this is great for fueling growth, their toil is not lifting them or their families out of poverty. Women face inequality, unfair pay and hunger in cocoa supply chains all over the world. These not so sweet facts about cocoa are taking the richness and flavor right out of my chocolate.
As consumers, we are directly connected to the farmers that grow the crops we count on and the companies that bring us our favorite products. Each of our actions can affect countless people. While it may seem that we can’t change any of this injustice, the fact is we can.
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